Amidst the yearning for warmth during the cold European winter, our journey takes us to a land that shines like a glistening gem in the Indian Ocean – Sri Lanka. Join us on a voyage through the diversity of this captivating country, from the picturesque beaches in the south to the breathtaking tea plantations in the central highlands, from the wild fauna in the east to the cultural and culinary heart in Kandy.
This land has captivated me not only with its beauty but also with its untamed and healing nature, and most importantly, the incredible warmth of its people. The locals, with their stories, profound knowledge of natural remedies, and deep pride in their culture, have left an indelible mark on my heart.
Our journey begins at Weligama Bay on the south coast of the country.
Surfing and wellness await you at Weligama Bay on the south coast of the country. Beyond the incredible white palm-fringed beaches, pleasant water temperatures, and ideal surfing conditions, it’s the stunning landscapes like Coconut Tree Hill and extraordinary ocean experiences such as swimming with turtles or encountering whales that attract tourists from around the world throughout the year.
I recommend indulging in the extensive wellness offerings of local Ayurveda retreats, such as the Secret Root Spa in Mirissa. Aside from massages and traditional Ayurvedic treatments, you can also consult with an Ayurvedic doctor who not only provides personalized advice but also explains the philosophy of this healing practice.
Green, lush nature and beautiful sandy beaches in Weligama.
Journeying Inland: A Deeper Understanding.
For those eager to learn more about the country, I invite you to venture from the coast into the heartland and explore a world that is more authentic, culturally progressive, welcoming, and cosmopolitan than you can imagine.
At the start of our 9-day tour, we meet Harsha. Today, he is the proud owner of a small van that will transport us through his land, into his world, in the days to come. In the past, he worked on a tea plantation for 16 years, rising from a fieldworker to a manager. His English is impeccable, a testament to Sri Lanka’s historical connection to the English language. His reliability, care, and willingness to introduce us to his culture are deeply impressive.
During these days, we learn a great deal about the ancient and recent history of the country, the influence of colonial rule, and the coexistence of ethnically diverse cultures and religions among the population.
If I had to describe Harsha in one word, it would be: proud. Pride runs through every fiber of his being. He is proud of his heritage, his faith, his family, and everything he has built with them. Life may not be carefree in times of financial and economic crises, but for those who, like him, achieve middle-class status through education, doors open that are not accessible to everyone in Sri Lanka. His son has been studying in Australia for a few months, and his educated daughter is set to marry a Sinhalese man in Australia. The heartache of being separated from his beloved adult children is profound, but a financially secure future is the one thing his beloved country cannot currently provide.
For those wondering if this marriage, like the majority of marriages in Sri Lanka, is arranged, I can confirm that this is the case for Harsha’s 26-year-old daughter. We had the privilege of learning firsthand that the process of arranging a marriage traditionally begins with a newspaper advertisement placed by the parents. However, the decision to proceed with or reject the marriage is made freely by both prospective partners – up to the day of the wedding, according to Harsha. And even in Sri Lanka, the modern Western-style love marriage is no longer uncommon today. But all marriages, whether arranged or for love, require the approval of the absolutely inviolable: the astrologer. Birth horoscopes of potential partners are exchanged as soon as the first photo is seen, and every couple has their chosen astrologer scrutinize the potential union. Harsha had to decline 22 proposals from potential suitors for his daughter before a hopeful 85% match finally emerged.
Spirituality, Religion, and Tradition: The Heart of Sri Lanka.
The majority, around 75% of the population, are Buddhists. Harsha is one of them. He defines Buddhism not as a religion but as a philosophy of life and values, describing his spiritual rituals and rules that guide him and his family through daily life. This includes not only a vegetarian diet, daily prayers and meditations, but also regular visits to the temple, which can be found in even the smallest villages. During our journey, we discover that Buddhist, and sometimes Hindu or Muslim chants or prayers, shape the soundscape of villages and towns at almost all times of day and night.
A Specialty: The World-renowned Ceylon Tea. Its cultivation has played a significant role in Sri Lanka for centuries.
At the Amba Estate tea plantation in the central highlands of the Ella region, we find a place that is paradise untouched in many ways yet very contemporary, embodying a vision realized. Amba Estate is committed to sustainability for the local community, preserving natural beauty, and establishing long-term economic stability for the previously least developed Uva Province.
In the last ten years, Amba has managed to increase the income of its now more than 50 full-time managers, supervisors, and workers, who are now recognized and paid as skilled laborers, from $20 to $200 to $400 per month. This commitment to employee welfare is also reflected in sustainable management practices: the entire cultivation area is protected as a forest and wildlife reserve, and all cultivation and processing activities follow strict organic guidelines. Read more about Amba Estate and their engagement here.
While we explore the impressive plantation, we become part of a beautiful New Year’s ceremony (Puja). All Amba Estate employees gather for this ceremony, singing, praying, blessing, and enjoying sweet rice pudding. Again and again in this country, but especially in this moment, I am deeply moved by how these rituals are integrated into everyday life, how they are respected and celebrated by everyone.
On New Year’s Day, we become part of a Puja ceremony (Buddhist offering ceremony).
Gal Oya Valley National Park Challenges Our Nature and Adventure Enthusiasm.
While we feel safe and comfortable at every location during our journey, at the Gal Oya Lodge on the edge of the national park, we can fully embrace the natural adventure and associated dangers. We learn that the entire region around the national park must be accessible to both humans and animals, with no barriers for wild and less wild creatures. Consequently, free-roaming elephants pose the biggest challenge for local farmers who rely on their harvest. We are not sure if the stories are true that entire leopard families have been spotted on the lodge grounds, but admittedly, these tales of wild elephants, leopards, and cobras searching for food make evening forest walks with a flashlight and a dedicated guide to our lodge room a bit more thrilling and mindful.
On a boat safari in Gal Oya National Park, we are fortunate to spot an entire family of elephants – the world’s only swimming elephants.
In Gal Oya, we also meet one of the last 5 indigenous inhabitants (Vedda) of the region.
Veddas belong to the indigenous (nature) peoples and are considered the original inhabitants of Sri Lanka. Originally, they were hunters and gatherers, living in simple mud and wooden huts and mainly subsisting on hunting and honey collection. Adorned with a sarong as clothing and armed with an axe, as well as a bow and arrow.
During a joint walk through the forest, we not only get to know the diversity and the effects of the existing natural resources and healing powers of nature better, but he also teaches us how to build traps, shoot arrows, and even sing traditional lullabies. His profound knowledge of the effects and healing properties of the local plants and trees is impressive. He shows us a tree whose sap heals skin irritations, treats small wounds with crushed leaf fluids, and shows us his amazingly healed scar on his entire palm from a battle with a bear.
It may sound surreal, and it is. Here stands someone who has never worn shoes, been to a supermarket, or seen the inside of a doctor’s office, yet his body radiates health and fitness. He possesses an incredible knowledge of nature and his immediate environment, almost merging with it. He is one with nature, so in harmony that he regularly protects us from the sun, small root obstacles, or biting ants during our conversation, healing minor injuries, and guiding us on the path. This man has a knowledge of life, an attentiveness, and a mental clarity like I have rarely seen. This is what it means to be truly present in the here and now, I thought.
This ‘Vedda’ man is a hunter, gatherer, and healer all in one.
Kandy is considered the geographical and cultural center of the country; we experience it as the culinary heart.
Kandy was the last kingdom of Sri Lanka until the British conquest in 1815 and is famous for its Buddhist holy sites, including the Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa), where the spectacular Esala Perahera procession is held annually.
Kandy will be unforgettable for us, thanks to a woman named Shishanti.
We were invited to cook traditional Sri Lankan dishes with her and her 97-year-old mother. All the ingredients for the 10 different curries we prepare came from their own garden or the market, and they were characterized by being rarely found in Europe. These included okra, banana blossoms, Goa beans, luffa, coconuts, and several other exotic herbs and vegetables. The variety of spices that Shishanti skillfully uses is a feast for the senses. Her warmth and dedication in preparing and creating each dish over the kitchen fire, along with her stories of daily life, are memorable. These women, living with 4 generations and 12 people in one house, constantly caring for the youngest, spending every day in the kitchen from 5 in the morning, are needed by the family until old age. And they love it, it keeps them fit, they say. Despite the simplicity of the entire house, which is large but very minimalist, this house is filled with a family full of life and love. You can feel it.
Cooking is traditionally done over an open fire. Shishanti and her mother conjure up lunch with us.
It is the warmth of the people in Sri Lanka that remains unforgettable.
Sri Lanka has revealed itself to us as a land of contrasts and beauty, a place where tradition and progress go hand in hand, and where people, despite challenges, look to the future with pride and hope. The encounters with locals like Harsha, the Vedda man, and Shishanti and her mother deeply touched us and showed us how rich, diverse, and different life can be in another part of the world. In every smile, every gesture, and every shared moment, we felt genuine hospitality and warmth that make this country so special. Sri Lanka is not only a destination for adventurers and nature lovers but also a place that touches the heart and creates unforgettable memories.
