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Arles – A Provençal Town with World-Class Art

by Marieke Hoppe

The image depicts the distinctive "Head" sculpture atop the Dana Porter Library at the University of Waterloo in Ontario, Canada. The "Head," a large metal sculpture resembling a head emerging from the library's roof, was designed by Michael Hammersley and is one of two sculptures created for the building. It has become an iconic landmark on campus, appearing on university promotional materials and being featured prominently in various media outlets. — LUMA Arles: A Beacon of Contemporary Art © Copyright: M. Hoppe

Why a small town in the French Provence is an unparalleled attraction for art and culture lovers.

Did you know that Arles, much more than just the capital of the Camargue, has evolved into a vibrant center for art, design, and architecture? Our road trip took us on a beautiful spring day in February from a village in the middle of the Provence to Arles – unaware of the extraordinary discoveries that awaited us. Our plan: a day at the LUMA museum and a night at the Hotel L’Arlatan. Arles presented itself as an epicenter of contemporary art, immersing us in the extraordinary world of art, architecture, and design. This discovery was a true revelation – a place where the past and modernity merge in a harmonious symphony, captivating visitors from around the world with its unexpected creative energy and visionary aesthetics.

From afar, we could already recognize the new landmark of the city, LUMA in Arles.

LUMA Arles: A Beacon of Contemporary Art

LUMA is a visionary cultural center that has been a bastion of contemporary art and new media since its opening in 2018. This project was funded by the LUMA Foundation. Under the patronage of Maja Hoffmann, an heir to the Roche fortune and a key figure in the world of contemporary art, LUMA Arles quickly became a magnet for art lovers and cultural creators.

Designed by Frank Gehry, the center’s main building, standing 56 meters tall and reminiscent of a shimmering diamond, captures the light of Provence with its reflective facade, creating a constantly changing spectacle that reflects the dynamism and energy of the art housed within. This architectural icon symbolizes not only the creative power of contemporary art but also the harmonious fusion of art and architecture that characterizes LUMA Arles.

Alt tag: A collage of four architectural images featuring a modern, abstract building with a silver facade and large glass windows, alongside historical structures with stone and traditional designs, set against a blue sky.

LUMA Arles © Copyright: M. Hoppe

Inside its walls, a world unfolds where art and architecture enter into a symbiotic relationship. Works like Carsten Höller’s “Isometric Slides” and Olafur Eliasson’s monumental, rotating ceiling mirror blur the lines between artistic experience and physical space, inviting visitors to engage with art in an interactive and immersive way.

This collage presents a stunning aerial view of a city, accompanied by four photographs that showcase the building's unique architecture. The top photo captures a bird's-eye view of the cityscape, featuring numerous rooftops, buildings, and a body of water in the distance. The surrounding sky is a brilliant blue with wispy clouds. The lower-left photograph reveals the interior of the building, showcasing a striking staircase composed of silver metal tiles arranged in a wave-like pattern. The adjacent photo displays an expansive spiral staircase with white walls, while the bottom-right image presents a massive sculpture featuring four interconnected rings made from shiny steel or chrome, suspended against a beige wall. The overall atmosphere exudes modernity and sleekness, suggesting that this building is either a contemporary art museum or gallery space.

LUMA Arles © Copyright: M. Hoppe

The grounds, the ‘Parc des Ateliers’ – invite for cultural experiences and relaxation in nature.

Surrounded by the natural beauty of the Camargue, the Crau, and the Alpilles, this masterpiece, the LUMA Tower, stands in the Parc des Ateliers, a former railway site transformed into a vibrant green oasis. This park, open to the public, reflects the foundation’s commitment to connecting art and nature. It invites visitors to linger and enriches the experience with a selection of cafes and restaurants.

Alt tag: "Collage of an architectural site featuring a modern glass and metal building alongside images of an open-air space, a colorful sculpture, a historic house, and a restored brick structure under a clear blue sky."

Parc des Ateliers, LUMA Arles © Copyright: M. Hoppe

The exhibitions at LUMA Arles showcase the diversity and richness of the modern art scene. They provide a stage for artists to explore current topics and offer space for discussions, from photography and fine art to multimedia installations. The museum and the entire grounds are freely accessible, designed as an invitation for everyone to stay, discover, and be inspired by art.

Above all, the invitation to encounter: whether in the context of art, nature, or throughout the entire grounds.

The top floor of the LUMA Tower serves as an observation platform, offering breathtaking views of the historic core of Arles with its two amphitheaters, while a floor below, cozy spaces for encounters and exchange invite to enjoy the view even in less favorable weather. LUMA Arles is far more than a museum; it is a successful, lively place for encounter, culture, dialogue, and inspiration, constantly redefining the boundaries of what art can be.

Maja Hoffmann – The Visionary behind the LUMA Foundation and the City Arles.

Maja Hoffmann, the second youngest child in her family, has transformed her father’s passion for nature into a love for art and the revitalization of her birth town. With great dedication, she collects artworks and has enriched Arles with a Van Gogh Museum through her generosity. Moreover, she has invested in the acquisition and renovation of two hotels and opened a gourmet restaurant, enriching the city’s gastronomic offerings. Recently, she also took over the city’s most prestigious four-star hotel, further highlighting her commitment to enhancing Arles. Maja Hoffmann is also the owner of the Hotel L’Arlatan, where we were guests. She was also present at her hotel that evening.

The Hotel L’Arlatan – A Jewel in the Heart of the Old Town.

In the heart of the historic old town stands the Hotel L’Arlatan, a place distinguished by its vibrant patterns and colors. The Cuban-American artist Jorge Pardo has managed to transform the hotel into a livable artwork by painting directly onto walls, doors, and furniture. Pardo, known for his captivating installations, has not only contributed his own paintings but also laid impressive 6,000 square meters of mosaic tiles, made up of nearly two million handmade fragments. The geometric patterns of the tiles run throughout the entire hotel, creating an atmosphere that is both unique and inviting.

The image is a collage of photographs showcasing various rooms in a hotel or inn, featuring eclectic lighting fixtures and decor. In the top left frame, the room features a blue railing with hanging lights made from intricate white filigree, which are illuminated to create a warm glow. The walls are painted tan, adding to the cozy ambiance. The remaining frames display different rooms within the establishment, each with its own unique lighting scheme and decor. Some of these elements include: * A room with red brick walls. * A room with colorful floral-patterned flooring. * A room with a bed adorned in an orange patterned comforter. * A room with blue stone wall accents and a large round mirror above the bed. The overall atmosphere of the image is one of warmth and coziness, inviting viewers to relax and unwind within these comfortable spaces.

Every piece of furniture in Hotel L’Arlatan is a signed piece of art, including the delicate chandeliers and laser-cut metal works designed by Pardo, based on Mexican banderines. The restoration of the building, which dates back to the 5th century, was an extensive project that required a team of 30 painters, architects, designers, and carpenters. The hotel stands over the ruins of a Roman basilica, discovered in the late 1980s when the owners found the foundations of statues and the remnants of a well in the basement.

The hotel, with rooms starting from 149 EUR per night, is not just accommodation but a profound cultural experience that blurs the boundaries between art and living space. It invites its guests to immerse themselves in a world rich in colors, patterns, and history, and offers an unparalleled opportunity to live and sleep in a unique artwork.

Alt tag: "Interior of a modern restaurant featuring colorful geometric tile flooring, stylish seating with yellow and red upholstery, and decorative lighting. The entrance leads to a warmly lit dining area."

The restaurant at L’Arlatan is also worth a visit, distinguished by an exciting menu and incredible hospitality © Copyright: M. Hoppe

Arles: A Microcosm of Inspiration

A short trip to Arles was not just a beautiful break for us; this small town presented itself as an exceptional host. The combination of a visit to LUMA Arles and a stay at the Hotel L’Arlatan offers a unique perspective on what Arles has to offer. Arles proves that art and culture have the power to transform spaces and profoundly connect people. Even though we do not personally define ourselves as connoisseurs of art and culture, Arles gave us the opportunity to truly dive into this world. It was a great joy to experience Arles!

More about LUMA Fondation here

More about the Hotel & Booking here